With the two chrome surrounds removed we’re now at the second most difficult part of dissecting the new Xbox 360. You’ve got 6 on one side and 5 on the other chrome lip, the shots below should help you. Start with the clips you know you can get off and then try to pry the tough ones later. Some of the clips are only accessible via a very tiny, very long flat head. Some clips will give way easily, others will take some coercion. Wedge it between the clip and the rest of the chassis and push away from the chassis: These are attached via clips that can be tempted loose using that trusty flat head screwdriver. Now we have to remove the two chrome surrounds on either side of the system. It is just plugged into an internal USB port. Remove the T8 screw and the card slides right out. Great.Īt this point you can also remove the 802.11n card which is held in place by a single screw. Now you’ve got line of sight into the system itself. Do this around the edge until the entire cover is removed.
You’ll see a lot of flexing and then hear a pop, once you hear one move to the next portion of the plastic cover. Stick your screwdriver in one of the cutouts and pry away. Thankfully doing so doesn’t fundamentally ruin the system. It looks like Microsoft did this to make opening the new 360 something that could only be properly reversed at Microsoft itself. In fact, removing these plastic covers will break part of the stands off. The stands are wider at their outer most edge than they are at the base, too wide to just fit through the hole. The cover is attached to the system by several plastic stands that fit through little holes behind them. You can wedge your flathead between the plastic cover and the rest of the system and pry it off. Removing the two plastic grates will reveal two more black plastic covers. This next part is the first of two hard parts, and I’m not sure there’s a way around this. I crammed a plastic tool between the chrome casing and the plastic grate to pull it off and then wedged my fingers in there to get the entire piece off. The side without the hard drive is a bit more difficult.
#XBOX 360 S DISASSEMBLY DRIVER#
They are attached using clips along their edges so work one part out with your flat head driver and just pull the rest off. Next we have two plastic grates on the left and right of the system that pop right off. We’re happy to report that, should your new Xbox One have cooling issues, replacing the fan or heat sink is easy.Īll it takes is the simple flick of a spudger to separate the 112 mm diameter fan from the heat sink.To start you’ll want to first remove the hard drive. We recommend you use the Xecuter XCLAMP Unlock Tool for this We believe this is an Audio User Interface chip from Nuvoton. The back of the RF Module board features one lone IC from Info Storage Devices labeled 9160F1MS03 1327 2317B057. The RF Module board detaches outward from the lower case. Newegg seems to have favorable reviews of this drive. Samsung Spinpoint M8 ST500LM012 500 GB 5400 RPM with 8MB Cache SATA II 3.0Gb/s hard drive. The underside of the Blu-Ray drive is a couple of IC’s and a large ribbon cable: There are 8 x 64mm Torx 9 screws to remove. Marvell Avastar 88W8782U WLAN SOC w/USB 2.0 Interface Support
#XBOX 360 S DISASSEMBLY BLUETOOTH#
Marvell Avastar 88W8897 2×2 MIMO Wi-Fi Combination Radio Chip Supports 802.11ac, NFC, Bluetooth and Wireless Display Rear panel clips are very similar to the 360 Slim You can use the XCLAMP Unlock Tool for this. Side panel clips are very similar to the 360 Slim. You can use the XCLMAP Unlock Tool to remove these rubber pads.
You just need a Torx 9 Screwdriver (Unlock kit comes with T8 and T10) The Xecuter Unlock Kit v3 should work fine with this which includes the XCLAMP Unlock Tool & Clip Slider It’s surprisingly easy and much easier than the 360 was (which wasn’t THAT difficult anyway)
#XBOX 360 S DISASSEMBLY HOW TO#
This is a step by step guide on how to strip your XBOX ONE down to all of its individual parts.
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